Fashion Wire Daily NY June 4, 2001 - Forget lunchtime peels or collagen injections. Photo facials are the latest anti-aging quick fix for common complexion complaints.
The secret behind the procedure's popularity: Unlike lasers, microdermabrasion or other cosmetic procedures, Photo facials, otherwise known as photo rejuvenation treatments, are non-evasive so there's minimal - if any - discomfort and no recovery period.
"Because the light bypasses - and works below - the surface of the skin there's no down time," explained Cindy Barshop, owner of Completely Bare, a New York City spa where droves of men and women have been scheduling sessions to erase fine wrinkling, broken capillaries, freckling, red blotches and the signs of sun damage.
How does it work? A technician targets pulses of light generated by a machine - the duration of intensity and wavelength of which may be manipulated with filters - to zap problem areas and "stimulate collagen production," said Barshop, firming up slack areas and fine lines while improving the texture and overall tone of the complexion.
Typically, a series of five or six sessions lasting approximately 45 minutes each are necessary along with touch-up facials about two to four times a year to maintain the results, which are unfortunately not always permanent. "As a result of the natural aging process you can lose some of the improvements," explained Barshop.
Not every expert is sold on the light therapy. "I don't believe it's cost effective," said Beverly Hills dermatologist Harold Lancer, M.D., "because it's an expensive, repetitive treatment" - running in price from $300 to $500 per session.
"The machine itself comes in various forms and has been around for about five to ten years," explained Lancer. Recently, however, the "intense pulse light technology" has been marketed as Photofacial, the trademark name for this cosmetic procedure.
"One reason it's so popular is that it can be used by non-physicians," he explained. "And depending on who you talk to, the treatment has its pros and cons."
"It's purported to do everything: vessel reduction; reversing lines, folds, wrinkles and photo aging; thickening and firming collagen. And it does do something in some people periodically." (In fact, he said, "It may be useful in treatment flushing or rosacea. That's probably it's only benefit.")
Another cause for concern, says Lancer, is that he has treated patients suffering from some adverse side effects related to the treatment - including burns from the intense heat generated by the device and discolorations. (Barshop warns potential photofacial clients that users of Accutane, Retin-A or other medications causing light sensitivity should avoid the treatment.)
Nevertheless, according to New York Pilates instructor Terry Blosser, a series of treatments changed her complexion - with visible results after just one session.
"It was amazing. The difference I saw in the lines around my eyes. I didn't have pretty satiny skin but the facials closed my pores which were always so big. And there was color correction as I tended to have redness in my cheeks. Broken capillaries were mended."
"After the first I saw a little bit of difference and when you get into two and three and four you see a major difference," she said.
"The worst thing is the gel that they put on your face so you won't feel the heat of the light - and you don't feel that at all," said Blosser. "It's so cold that I got forehead brain freeze," she explained. "Just like when you eat ice cream too fast."
"Maybe there's a little redness when you first leave," she said. "But you just put on a little moisturizer and you're good to go."
