Denim Fest at Intermezzo

By Karin Nelson
Fashion Wire Daily

Fashion Wire Daily NY May 9, 2003 - Though the sale of denim has reportedly dropped since the beginning of the year, there was no indication of such at the Intermezzo Collections, the tri-annual trade show which wrapped up their Fall/Winter and Resort '03 exhibitions at Pier 90, 92, 94 in New York on Thursday.

Sales at Blue Cult, Blujenious, Joie, Joe's, 7 For all Mankind, and Von Dutch were all holding strong, as each of the companies introduced more cargo, zippered, wide-legged, and washed-out variations of everyone's favorite blue pant. Even Alice + Olivia, the chic pants label started two years ago as an alternative to jeans, has now introduced them: pony-skinned and leather trimmed, with enormous cuffs or black knit leggings attached.

"We started doing denim for spring and it did really well, so we continued with it," explained co-owner Stacey Bendet, who has also introduced a series of sweet, colorful sweaters to the collection.

But not everything was jean material. One of the stand-outs of the show -- the four-month-old label Da Nang -- has built a strong brand around washed out, beaten-up leather, cotton, and twill. "We wanted to create a lifestyle -- one that was very relaxed and easy to wear with a vibe of colonial Indochine," says owner Albert Dahan, who's brother Joe started Joe's Jeans. Half of Da Nang's distressed fatigue wear is produced in Vietnam, where Dahan found old weaving machines used to make some of the fabrics.

One pier over at Juicy Couture, the brand that epitomizes "relaxed and easy to wear" with its cotton tracksuits, the focus was on luxe fabrics. Apparently, when you witness Paris Couture week -- as Juicy founders Pamela Skaist-Levy and Gela Nash-Taylor did last season -- it's cashmere slippers and caftans, velveteen pantsuits embroidered with 'Juicy Couture' on the back, and rabbit fur-lined sweatshirts you're inspired to make.

As for accessories, which were presented at the biannual Accessories Circuit, while all things western appeared to making an unexpected comeback, the most notable pieces were by jewelry designer Mia Koniver. After splitting with Lizzie (as in Mia + Lizzie) Koniver has gone solo and created Mia + Kompany, a more sophisticated evolution of the feminine, fun and often a bit kitschy line she designed before. "I like to think my ideas mature as I get older," admits Koniver, now 33. Clearly they have, as intricate art deco pendants and diamond-encrusted floral rings indicate. Yet it was her still-young-at-heart pieces that were selling the best: A series of enamel daisy rings, an oversized gold feather amulet, and a gold subway token necklace -- that, not surprisingly, Sarah Jessica Parker will sport in an upcoming "Sex & The City" episode.