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COOKBOOK NOOK by Peter D. Franklin In the Pacific Northwest, "a quiet (culinary) revolution is taking place," according to the author of "Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining: The People, Places, Food and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia" by Braiden Rex-Johnson (Wiley, $34.95). Layers of immigrants -- Europeans, Asians and most recently Latinos -- have added their influences to those of the native North Americans, creating an intoxicating melting pot, if you will. Add to the stew the freshest of local ingredients and outstanding local wines, and you'll taste the best of Northwest cuisine. Braiden Rex-Johnson guides the reader to restaurants, farms, dairies and wineries in search of the most exciting regional fare. The journey explores the Walla Walla Valley, Vancouver Island, Columbia Gorge, the Seattle area and more than a half-dozen other venues. The trip also includes the Okanagan Valley of British Columbia, known for its outstanding wineries. In the main the recipes are inviting but a few can be challenging because of ingredients that may be difficult to find in other parts of the country. Take, for example, the recipe for Smoked Sablefish (Black Cod) With Spiced Cherry Tomato Vinaigrette. Another might be the White Truffle Fondue, or the Spring Pheasant With Morels. Perhaps your supermarket carries Dungeness crab, but many do not. Rex-Johnson has provided dozens of other wonderful recipes with which to taste the Northwest, however. Among those that look inviting are Idaho Lamb Medallions With Plum Brandy Jam, Roasted Salmon With Sorrel Beurre Blanc, Garden-Fresh Gazpacho With Garlic Croutons, Grilled Halibut With White Wine-Mustard Sauce, Candied Walnuts, and Sea Scallops With Spiced Carrot-Dill Sauce. Although I personally would have liked the type to have been a little bit larger, everything is neatly presented, along with dozens of outstanding photographs by Jackie Johnston depicting the beautiful Pacific Northwest and its people. The author also includes a list of the outstanding area festivals and three pages of "techniques." "Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining" is an enjoyable learning experience, topped by good tastes.
Washington State is known for its cherries and hazelnuts, both of which are featured in this recipe from the Chukar Cherry Co. in Prosser, Wash.
HAZELNUT CRUSTED CHICKEN IN CHERRY-WINE SAUCE 1 large egg white1 cup hazelnuts or almonds, finely chopped 4 teaspoons olive oil 6 skinless, boneless chicken breasts halves, rinsed and patted dry 1 1/2 cups minced shallots 2 teaspoons minced garlic 1 cup dried tart cherries (Chukar brand preferred) 1/2 cup dry white wine 2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled 2 cups homemade chicken stock or reduced-sodium chicken broth In a shallow dish, beat the egg white until pale and frothy. Spread the hazelnuts evenly over a large plate. Heat 2 teaspoons of the olive oil in a large, nonstick skillet over medium heat. Dip the chicken breasts in the egg, let the excess egg drip off, then lightly coat the breasts in the nuts. When the oil is hot, arrange the chicken in the skillet without crowding, or cook in 2 batches. Cook the breasts until brown on the outside but not cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes on each side. Remove from heat, cover and reserve. While the chicken is cooking, heat the remaining 2 teaspoons oil in a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook, stirring frequently and lowering the heat as needed, until softened but not browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the cherries, white wine and thyme and stir well. Cook until almost all the liquid has evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the chicken stock and stir well. Add the cherry-chicken broth mixture to the reserved skillet containing the chicken breasts; cover and simmer until the chicken is cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes. Gently turn the breasts two or three times while they simmer so they cook evenly and completely. Place a chicken breast in the center of each dinner plate, surround with the sauce, and serve. Makes 6 servings.
Oregonzola is a blue cheese linked to The Rogue Creamery, founded in 1935 in the town of Central Point, Ore. The velvet-like texture of the cheese is the result of aging for at least 120 days in caves.
BROCCOLI AND OREGONZOLA SOUP 2 tablespoons unsalted butter3/4 cup chopped white or yellow onion 1 cup peeled, chopped russet potato 1 1/2 pounds trimmed broccoli, coarsely chopped (about 7 1/2 cups) 2 cups vegetable stock, plus 2 cups water, or 4 cups water 4 ounces Oregonzola blue cheese or other high-quality blue cheese, crumbled Freshly grated nutmeg Kosher salt Pepper Walnut oil, for drizzling Heat the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and potato, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is slightly softened but not browned, 5 minutes. Add the broccoli and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Add the 2 cups of stock and 2 cups of water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, 15 minutes. Strain the vegetables, reserving the cooking liquid. Put the cooked vegetables in a food processor and moisten with a few tablespoons of the cooking liquid. Pulse until very smooth. With the motor running, gradually add the rest of the cooking liquid. Work in batches as needed. Transfer the soup back to the saucepan. Reheat until almost boiling, then remove from heat. Stir in the blue cheese. Add the nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Ladle the soup into 8 warm soup bowls and drizzle with the walnut oil. Makes 8 servings.
COPYRIGHT 2008 PETER D. FRANKLIN
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| Copyright © 2008 Universal Press Syndicate | ||

