If more than two weeks of Olympics coverage from China has whet your appetite for Chinese food -- real Chinese food -- two learned and fascinating cookbooks might belong on your kitchen library shelf.

"The Seventh Daughter: My Culinary Journey From Beijing to San Francisco" by Cecilia Chiang with Lisa Weiss (Ten Speed Press, $35) is as much the author's autobiography as it is an up-close and personal view of Chinese cooking. The seventh daughter born into a life of privilege -- the family home in Beijing had 52 rooms -- Chiang and her family "escaped" communist rule by fleeing in 1949. Chiang eventually moved on to San Francisco, becoming a highly respected chef and restaurateur along the way.

Each recipe is accompanied by memories of China, family and friends. Many of the dishes are a challenge, even with the author's detailed instructions. Some titles also will be unfamiliar, such as Lion's Head. It is a simple dish, actually: large meatballs surrounded by cabbage and noodles.

Equally engaging is "Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook: Recipes From Hunan Province" by Fuchsia Dunlop (Norton, $29.95). Hunan, a central China region known for its spicy hot dishes, is the birthplace of Communist Party Chairman Mao Zedong. Hence, among the 120 recipes is Chairman Mao's Red-Braised Pork and many stories about him.

British author Dunlop has done a brilliant job of introducing readers to this regional cuisine and the cultural heritage of the province. As with Chiang's book, a lot may be unfamiliar, such as Golden Coins, an egg dish made from hard-boiled eggs that are sliced and fried to resemble golden coins and then the stir-fried with seasonings.

Both books almost demand that a well-stocked Oriental purveyor be nearby. Also, each volume will appeal to the adventuresome cook.

STIR-FRIED BEEF WITH SNOW PEAS

3 1/2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 teaspoon baking soda

2 teaspoons cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

Pinch of kosher salt

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

3/4 pound (about 4 cups) fresh snow peas, ends snapped and strings removed

Freshly ground black pepper, for finishing

So the flank steak is easier to slice, freeze it for 30 minutes or so to firm it up. Halve the frozen beef lengthwise, then with your knife almost parallel to the cutting surface, slice it diagonally against the grain into thin slices, about 1/8 inch thick.

To marinate the beef: Toss the slices with 1 1/2 tablespoons of the peanut oil, baking soda, cornstarch and white pepper in a medium bowl. Cover the bowl and let the beef marinate in the refrigerator for 1 hour.

Heat a large wok over high heat until a bead of water dances on the surface and then evaporates. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil with a pinch of salt and swirl to coat the pan. Toss in the beef and cook, stirring constantly, 2 to 3 minutes, or until the beef has started to brown. Add the oyster sauce and stir to combine well. Continue to cook 30 seconds or more, or until the pieces are all still a bit pink. Transfer the beef to a bowl. Set aside.

Return the pan to high heat, add the snow peas, and cook 30 seconds, tossing constantly. Stir in the reserved beef and continue to cook 30 seconds more. Transfer the beef to a serving platter and sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper.

Makes 6 servings as part of a Chinese meal and 4 to 6 as a Western-style entree.

SWEET-AND-SOUR SPARE RIBS

2 (1-ounce) pieces fresh ginger, unpeeled and crushed

4 scallions, white part only, crushed

1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine

Salt

3 tablespoons peanut oil

2 teaspoons dark soy sauce

4 tablespoons white sugar

1 tablespoon Chinkiang vinegar

1 teaspoon sesame oil

Place the ribs in a saucepan of water and bring to a boil over a high flame. Skim the water, then add one piece of ginger, 2 scallions, the Shaoxing wine and salt to taste. Boil for 15 minutes, until the meat is cooked and tender; strain and set aside, reserving the cooking liquid.

Heat oil in a wok over a high flame. Add the remaining scallions and ginger and stir-fry until fragrant. Add the ribs and toss for a couple of minutes in the fragrant oil.

Add slightly less than 1 cup of the reserved cooking liquid, the dark soy sauce and the sugar, with a little salt to taste (take care not to oversalt, because the liquid will eventually be reduced to a glaze). Simmer over medium flame, spooning the liquid over the ribs, until the sauce has reduced to a heavy syrupy consistency.

Add the vinegar and cook for another 1 to 2 minutes, until the flavors have fused. Off the heat, stir in the sesame oil and leave to cool before eating.

Makes 2 servings with one or two other dishes and rice, or 4 servings with three or four other dishes and rice.

(Note: The Chinkiang brand of black vinegar, readily available, is made from malt and glutinous rice. A substitute for the Shaoxing wine is a dry sherry.)

COPYRIGHT 2008 PETER D. FRANKLIN